Lizzy welcomes you to the garden

Lizzy welcomes you to the garden
The blog for the UCSB Garden

Monday, November 23, 2020

Seasonal Growing List - Winter

Winter 

  • December 

    • Vegetables 

      • Asparagus 

      • Beets

      • Carrots 

      • Cabbage family

      • Lettuce

      • Onions 

      • Parsnips 

      • Potato

      • Radish 

      • Spinach 

      • Turnips

    • Bare-Root Roses

  • January 

    • Herbs 

      • Bay leaf 

      • Chives

      • Parsley 

      • French thyme

    • Vegetables

      • Artichokes

      • Horseradish

      • Rhubarb

    • Fruit 

      • Strawberries

  • February 

    • Vegetables 

      • Beets 

      • Celery 

      • Carrots 

      • Chard

      • Collards

      • Kale

      • Kohlrabi

      • Leeks

      • Lettuce 

      • Peas

      • Radishes

      • Spinach 

      • Turnips

      • Garlic

      • Onions 

      • Shallots

    • Fruit 

      • Berries

      • Grapevines 

    • Ornamentals

      • Alyssum

      • Aster

      • Cornflower

      • Calendula

      • Carnation 

      • Coreopsis 

      • Columbine 

      • Cosmos

      • Delphinium

      • Forget-me-not 

      • Hollyhock

      • Impatiens

      • Lobelia

      • Lupine 

      • Marigold 

      • Pansies

      • Petunia

      • Violas

      • Native wildflowers

    • Bulbs 

      • Agapanthus 

      • Anemone

      • Amaryllis 

      • Caladium 

      • Calla lily

      • Dahlia

      • Iris

      • Gladiola


More References:

In addition to knowing what to grow it’s good to know what not to grow. Check out this website  https://plantright.org/

Tuesday, November 17, 2020

Rolling Task List for Volunteer Hours

 Hi Everybody, for your 2 hours of community service per quarter here's the task list with pictures. Here is a post from awhile back for weed identification. At this time of year all weeds have seeds so go to the greenwaste bin. Knock the soil out of the roots first. Send me an email when you've done your 2 hours so I can record that.


1) Weeding out Plot 13 on Peter, weeds in open area, in fenceline along Great Blue Heron path, around spigot





2) removing trash wood/metal from plot 13. requires a pickup truck. the dumpster at the south end of the Baseball stadium parking lot by the bike path is fine to use for this.   

pictures above show some of the wood/metal debris to remove. the black plastic material can be placed in the greenhouse for reuse.

3) Weeding out Plot 14 on Peter. Between and around beds, also the old dead weeds in the background of the first image.




4) Weeding, smoothing path Peter between Great Blue Heron and Woodpecker. Weeding mostly around Great Blue Heron, smoothing mostly towards Woodpecker. For smoothing, use the digging bar, a 6' long black iron spike to loosen the top 3-4" of soil then smooth it out.




5) Smoothing path Lizzy,Woodpecker intersection area. For smoothing, use the digging bar, a 6' long black iron spike to loosen the top 3-4" of soil then smooth it out. Done

 


6) Weeding behind the bench on Egret. Done

 


7) Weeding in vicinity of Egret/Gary/Lizzy sign. Weed around the small citrus tree (primarily bermuda grass). This is a little tricky because you need to dig out all of the roots or it will resprout/regenerate. Weed ragweed and others weeds from under the fig.  Done




8) Weed and smooth path south of plot 11,12 on Peter. For smoothing, use the digging bar, a 6' long black iron spike to loosen the top 3-4" of soil then smooth it out.

 

 

9) Work in the big open area on Rabbit Run, there are 2 jobs: 1) Slide the row of new beds (including cardboard) to the east about 4' such that they are parallel and 3' apart from the existing row of 3 beds. First you'll need to level the new locations better, particularly for the southernmost bed, and take up the tarps where the southernmost bed will go. 2) take up the existing tarps in the southwest corner of the plot and rearrange them to cover the weeds (Bermuda Grass) at the west end of the plot. First pull the existing bermuda grass and place in greenwaste bin, the tarps (lack of light) will take care of the root systems. Place boards on top of the tarps to secure them.


 


Everything About Composting!

Why Compost?

  • Reduces waste output to landfills
  • Reduces methane emissions

  • Allows nutrients to be recycled back into soil

  • Improves soil composition


Aerobic (Hot) Composting

    This type of composting is done outside. It needs to be turned 3 times a week to oxygenate the waste. It is done in a pile at least  3’x3’x3’ to make sure the middle of the pile get hot enough. It can get up to 120-170ºF depending on the size of the pile. Approximently 50% of the pile should be carbon sources such as dried leaves, grass, etc.

What to add:

  • Fruit and vegetables, avoid melon rinds or cut small

  • Coffee grounds

  • Grains and beans can ferment and mold they should make up less than 15% of the pile

  • No meat, diary, oil, potting soil or animal waste (egg shells okay)

  • Limit green (whole plant) waste 


Vermicompost 

    The two major differences between aerobic hot composting and vermicompost is the presence of soil and worms in vermicompost. To start this compost pile you need a soil bedding which acts as a carbon source and allows for more air flow, it will also absorb extra moisture. Make sure your compost pile has moderate temperature control between 40ºF and 90ºF and has lot of sunlight which will encourage the worms to get moving. 

What to add:

  • Fruit and vegetables, avoid melon rinds or cut small

  • Coffee grounds

  • Grains and beans can ferment and mold they should make up less than 15% of the pile

  • No meat, diary, oil or animal waste (egg shells okay)


Local Composting Initiatives 

  • Methodist Garden - Currently NOT accepting compost

    • Will be open to everyone to drop off at a later date

    • Hot Compost rules (No meat, diary, oil, potting soil or animal waste)

    • Sometimes you are able to take compost soil

    • Contact Kai Deguzman, Intern. Email: johnathandeguzman@ucsb.edu

  • St. Mikes Community Garden- Currently NOT accepting compost

    • Will be open to everyone to drop off at a later date

    • Hot compost rules (No meat, diary, oil, potting soil or animal waste)

    • Contact Luis Mairena, Intern. Email: lmairena@ucsb.edu

  • IV Co-op 

    • Yellow bins next to dumpsters in front parking 

    • Does not stay in community-serviced by Marborg 

    • Hot compost rules!

  • Family Student Housing 

    • Run by DTW 

    • Only open to Family Student Housing residents 

    • Drop off at Storke and West Campus 

    • Add to big black circular bins NOT stalls 

    • No meat, dairy, seafood, grains, oils, potted soil 

Tuesday, November 10, 2020

Staying Connected in Uncertain Times


Want to feel more connected with gardeners or UCSB programs? Check out these social media pages to stay connected while social distancing!


UCSB Affiliated Instagram Pages:

Department of Public Worms @ucsbdpw

UCSB Thrive @ucsbthrive

Edible Campus Program @ucsbecp

Associated Students Food Bank @ucsbasfoodbank

UCSB Halal and Kosher Food Program @halalandkosherucsb

AS Zero Waste Committee @ucsbzerowaste

UCSB Associated Students @asucsb


Local Organizations Instagram Pages: 

Isla Vista Co-op @islavistafoodcoop

Isla Vista Trading Post @ivtradingpost 

Surfrider Isla Vista Branch @islavistasurfrider

Surfrider Santa Barbara Branch @surfridersb

Eco Vista @ecovistacommunity


Tic Tok Plant Doctors and Gardeners:

@gardenmarcus

@epicgardening

@ggthegardeninggirl

@plant_mama

@crazy.plant.guy

@plantathome


Garden Podcasts:

Epic Gardening: Daily Growing Tips and Advice ⭐ 4.5/5

-daily gardening tips and advice

Living Homegrown Podcast with Theresa Loe 5/5

-sustainable lifestyle, small space growing, interviews

-unfortunately no new posts but plenty of content already posted

The Joe Garner Show - Organic Gardening 5/5

            -tips, interviews on organic growing food


Monday, October 19, 2020

Aboveground protection from animals

Run any construction plans you have by one of the garden managers. There are materials that aren’t appropriate for our organic garden for reasons which may not be immediately intuitive to you. Design-wise, our goal is to have people build functional infrastructure that will last and be beneficial to future gardeners.  I think this is the #1 thing that people get wrong. We definitely do have animal problems, but which animals are the issue evolves over the seasons and over the years, so permanent "solutions" do not make the most sense. I took a walk through the garden taking some photos and I'll discuss the good and bad of certain designs. Also, these are the animals I consider destructive: mice, voles, rats, squirrels, rabbits (new this year), birds, tomato horn worms, cabbage moths, caterpillars, aphids (you can't keep out insects with a cage...). In general younger plants should always be protected, many older plants don't as the leaves become less palatable, although their fruit may be taken (though this is hard to protect).


I'll start with my plots, L1, GBH2

I'm currently re-working this plot and am taking out the 3' tall permanent cage. This dates from the days when the garden was overrun with squirrels, and doesn't really serve a purpose anymore. The good thing about the design are the side doors front and back so I can reach in and pull weeds. The bad is it's not built that well and critters can get in, and it's still a hassle to weed as the door on the backside isn't super functional.
I'm growing sweet potatoes inside of the cube of 1" hexagonal wire. Squirrels and rats love sweet potatoes - both the tubers and the foliage. 1" wire seems to work.
I have a couple of miscellaneous smaller portable cages that I've built over the years. I use them on seedlings to keep birds, bunnies, etc off. I also tend to protect beans throughout their life. 
bunnies were eating young pepper plants, eggplant, tomatoes also
super simple cylinders of 1" hexagonal chickenwire to keep bunnies out. A fence around an entire raised bed could work but rabbits jump pretty high, at least 2', and to me leaning over a fence is a hassle. Also if rats or squirrels are a problem you need full cages and it's way easier to put a top on a cylinder of wire than it is to put a top on a fenced bed, see below.
 

 Laurie's plot, L10

Laurie's husband is a retired engineer, which means he has time and likes to build stuff. He did a nice job, though again these designs date from the time squirrels overran the garden so aren't necessarily necessary. The bottom design is better than the top one in my opinion. I don't like removable tops because if you have things that grow vertically you'll have to remove the tops or you won't be able to get in, and then birds, squirrels, rats can all get in, too. Having side opening doors allows you to access the cage when stuff grows through the top, and you're protecting most of the plant. Also the door hinges from the top so gravity keeps it closed. I like that the wire wraps around the wood, strengthening everything.

Peter 29

This isn't a good design, it looks nice but it's overkill and isn't going to last. I like the side opening doors but the latch comes undone and sometimes they are wide open. There's no top so the only thing it is keeping out are rabbits and there are much easier/cheaper ways to keep rabbits out. The wire is in panels and lots of 1x1s are used in the doors, so I don't think the doors will last.

Woodpecker 4

In the foreground are nice, simple designs. The only issue is there are some gaps at the ground level that an enterprising critter could get through. Some garden staples (pic below) would help. The cage in the back is a nice portable cage that can be moved easily to new plants or to weed the area it is currently protecting.


I use these black plastic trays when I direct seed seeds (for instance carrots or beets). It helps keep the soil moisture high for germination and keeps critters off. The trays in the pic are pretty open, there's another type that has much smaller holes, I prefer those. I'll leave them on until the foliage is poking through the top. Often you can find these in the greenhouse.